Walter van Beirendonck’s SS1996 collection, “Killer/Astral Travel/4D-Hi-D” was a three-part extravaganza that displayed the Belgian designer at his most exuberant. The show featured three different groups - the first of which, “Killer,” was inspired by the utilitarian, aerodynamic wear of New York messengers. The models wore skin tight cycling shirts, notably paired with widespread, fluffy plastic wigs, inspired by cycling helmets.

Before the presentation of the “Astral Travel” group, the stage was overtaken by an animatronic dragon flying through the air, followed by alien horsemen who rode through a field of explosions and dueling swordsmen. The second group pulled inspiration from earth’s beauty; they were alien travelers who touched down to earth and marveled in the unfamiliarity. Their clothes pulled from a range of influences, spanning from traditional Indian saris to nature imagery like mountains and cacti. A young Veronique Branquinho walked during this part. 

The third group stands as the most shocking and severe, as this portion of the show was inspired by the rapidly increasing danger of the AIDS epidemic. Models wore Mike Kelley-inspired plastic face-masks, with printed slogans on the front like “BLOW JOB” and “TERROR TIME.” These masks gave the models limited visibility. Due to a curtain defect, the catwalk was actually shorter than what the models practiced on earlier that afternoon. Some of the models would turn back off stage too early, while others walked off the stage and fell into the audience. It’s not clear whether or not this was intentional, but antics like these weren’t uncommon at W.&L.T. shows. 

These shorts more so speak towards the cycling-influenced portion of the collection, as they feature a longer cut that extends past the knee. The backside boasts a detachable bum bag with an accompanying strap allowing the bag to be worn over the shoulder. 

Condition: 8/10. Discoloration on backside.

Tagged size: S

Waist: 15in

Rise: 12in

Thigh: 13in

Inseam: 15in

Hem: 9.5in