Hedi Slimane’s work at Dior Homme in 2005 marked a shift away from his 2003-2004 output, which drew influence from the louche nightclubs of Berlin. As his time in Germany faded into the rearview, a distinctly American influence began to emerge within his work. The military jackets, T-shirts paired with suiting, and long, straight hair felt more Lower East Side than anything coming out of Europe. His fall 2005 work took this burgeoning aesthetic and imbued it with a sense of 1970s glam. Shades of David Bowie, David Johansen, and Mick Jagger in their cocaine phases shined through in Slimane’s impossibly slim tailoring, porkpie hats, and knee-length scarves. The makeup similarly harkened to this bygone era, with models donning heavy black eyeliner and glittering eye shadow. The most striking look was a flowing, fringed white poncho that created the appearance of angel wings. Slimane had always emphasized the youth and innocence of his male models, and the angelic top paired with drainpipe jeans and heeled boots was perhaps the purest distillation of such qualities.

This jacket speaks to the slick but eminently wearable garments Slimane created this season. It’s sharp collar gives a refined air to the classic varsity silhouette, while details of the Americana staple such as ribbed cuffs and piping are left in place.

Condition: 9/10. No noticeable flaws.

Tagged size: 44

Shoulder: Raglan

Pit to pit: 18in

Length: 24.5in

Sleeve: Raglan